Whether you’re new to lashing or a seasoned artist this tutorial recreates a natural, dramatic set that is perfect for freshening up on your Classic technique.
To suit our model’s almond eye shape and more sparse natural lash layers, we used flat lashes to create more fullness at the lash line and drama at the peak. Of course, this blueprint can and should be modified to suit your client’s wants, needs, face features and eye shape.
Let’s begin!DOWNLOAD YOUR DIGITAL BLUEPRINT
STEP 1 - Remove Makeup
Squeaky clean lashes are a must before beginning the application process to ensure optimal extension retention. Using our Breakdown Makeup Remover and the Clean Swoop brush, remove any makeup from your guest’s natural lashes by saturating the brush with Breakdown, and working the product into the lash line and all around the eyelid.
STEP 2 - Cleanse
With makeup removed, clean your client’s lashes using our Lash Bath Gel or Foam cleanser. Again, using the Clean Swoop brush gently work the cleanser into the lashline to remove any oil, dirt or debris. To finish, rinse with warm water and dry with a towel.
STEP 3 - Tape
Avoiding the waterline, secure the lower lashes in place using Bio Gel Pads and tape. To begin, use the Bio Gel Pads to lock down the tips of the lower lashes. Depending on your client’s eye shape and your preference, you can choose from either our Clean or Asymmetrical Curve shapes. Then making an X-shape, use two pieces of tape to lock down both the lower lashes on the outer and inner corners of the eye.
With the client’s eyes closed, make any necessary micro adjustments to ensure that the lower lashes are secured and your guest is comfortable.
Pro-Tip: If you want to add a bit of lift so that you can see the base of your client’s lashes, take a half-inch piece of tape, apply it gently to the eyelid, pull it over the brow and secure.
STEP 4 - Pre-Treat
Using either Pre-Treatment or Primer, apply a saline solution with a Microswap both over and under the lashes to make sure they are prepped and ready to be lashed. Note, this step does not replace the Lash Bath cleanse—lashes must be cleaned prior to prep.
Pro-Tip: Make sure you’re using the right prepping product for both your client and your climate! The key difference between Primer and Pre-Treatment is the type of polyacrylate polymer used in each. The softer polymer in the Primer makes it great for drier climates. The super absorbent "waterlock" polymer in the Pre-Treatment, on the other hand, absorbs larger amounts of water to dry out the lash surface, and is ideal for oily lash types and humid climates.
STEP 5 - Blueprint
The final step before application is blueprinting—this is where creativity reigns supreme! Blueprinting allows you to map out your game plan for each client, and helps ensure that every curl, length and diameter of extension is perfectly placed.
Starting with shorter lengths at the inner corner, this set builds up to the longest length extension hitting at the peak of the brow bone before tapering back down to the outside corner.
For a detailed deep-dive into blueprinting, read (and watch!) our Lashing Basics: Blueprinting tutorial here.
STEP 6 - Isolate
Working from the inner corners outward, isolate each natural lash prior to application. Isolation is key to healthy eyelash extensions as it prevents any interruption to the lashes' natural growth cycle.
For a more thorough isolation overview, read (and watch!) our Lashing Basics: Isolation tutorial here.
STEP 7 - Apply
Apply the extensions section by section. Proper application ensures you get the best possible bond and, consequently, retention.
Picking up each extension from the middle of the lash, dip the extension into the adhesive—making sure to avoid excessive adhesive pickup—and place one extension per natural, healthy lash at the base of each lash. Be sure to hold isolation long enough to allow the adhesive to dry.
STEP 8 - Mist & Set
Once application is complete, comb through the lashes to ensure each extension is perfectly placed, and nano-mist both eyes to fully cure and set the adhesive. As a best practice, ensure that you hold the nano mister 10 inches away from the eyes.
STEP 9 - Untape
Gently untape both eyes making sure to hold and secure the eyelid and under eye as you peel the tape away—we don’t want to tug, pull or irritate this very sensitive and delicate skin!
STEP 10 - Cooldown
Last but not least, apply a Cooldown Calming Eye Mask to each undereye to send your client off relaxed and refreshed! Not only do Cooldown Eye Masks make for a more luxe experience, but it also sets you up for retail upsell opportunities.
More of a visual learner? Check out our Lashing Basics: Nailing the Classic Set tutorial below for a step-by-step how-to on perfecting this fundamental technique.
For more lashing tips and tricks, check out the BorboletaPro educational offerings here for our full lashing curriculum lineup—including our Get Comfy with Classic Live Tutoring. And don’t forget to tag us on our IG @borboleta.pro to share all of the fabulous looks you create for your clients.