The Different Lash Curls Explained: Choosing the Right Curl for Every Guest

Choosing the right lash curl is one of the most important decisions a lash artist makes. Curls determine how lifted, elongated, soft, or dramatic a lash set will look, much like musical notes shaping a melody.

Using the wrong curl can lead to a finished set that doesn’t flatter the client eyes, appears unbalanced, or struggles with retention. But when you choose the right curl, you can balance facial features, create lift or elongation, enhance the natural eye shape, and help extensions last longer.

As your go-to educators in the lash industry, our goal here at Borboleta is to help you feel confident selecting the perfect curl for every client, every style, and every eye shape.

What Lash Curls Do

Across the industry, there are up to 15 curl options available to lash artists. Some curls have a deep curve from base to tip, some are more relaxed, and others make a sharp angular transition. Beyond the basics, there are specialty curls used for more advanced correction, customization, or specific eye shapes.

Because each curl type has its own shape, it also has its own purpose. Some curls lift and open the eyes, others elongate the lash line, and some can soften or sharpen the appearance of certain features.

We offer a wide range of curl options designed to support every artist, whether you’re creating classic, hybrid, or volume sets. Our forever goal is to give you the tools and knowledge to match your artistry style while delivering results your guests will love.

Common Lash Curl Types

These classic curls are the most frequently used and the most universally flattering. They’re ideal for beginners and pros alike.

C Curl

A balanced, soft curl that enhances natural lashes without overwhelming them. Great for clients who want a classic, natural look.

D Curl

Bold, dramatic, and eye-opening. D Curl gives maximum lift, making it ideal for glam looks or clients who want their eyes to stand out.

CC Curl

The perfect in-between curl, more lift than C, but softer than D. This curl is flattering on most clients and adds noticeable brightness to the eyes.

Why these curls are most popular

C, CC, and D curls align closely with what’s trending in beauty and makeup - soft lift, flirty openness, and a touch of glam. These foundational curls are easy to work with, blend seamlessly within sets, and suit the majority of guests.

Less Common or Specialty Lash Curls

These curls are designed for specific eye shapes, advanced styling, or corrective work.

L Curl

A straight base that transitions into an upward lift. Excellent for monolids, hooded eyes, or clients whose lashes grow downward.

L+ Curl

Similar to L Curl but with a sharper transition for even more lift and visibility.

M Curl

A straight base with a smooth, curved transition. Great for lifting outer corners and for corrective work on downturned eyes.

J Curl

The least curly option, ideal for extremely natural looks or clients wanting just a slight enhancement.

B Curl

Soft, subtle lift. Perfect for clients with naturally curled lashes or for a “my lashes but better” effect.

Why these differ:

Specialty curls either mimic natural lashes (like J or B) or have such a unique structure (like L, L+, M) that they’re not universally flattering. Instead, they shine when used purposefully for specific features, corrections, or eye shapes.

Matching Lash Curls to Eye Shapes

Choosing the right curl starts with analyzing the guest's natural features. Here’s a quick guide:

Almond Eyes - C or CC Curl

Almond eyes are the most versatile, and most curls will complement them.

C and CC curls enhance the natural symmetry and maintain the balanced shape.

Hooded Eyes - D, L, or L+ Curl

Hooded lids can cause extensions to press into the skin if the curl is too relaxed.

• D Curl provides the necessary lift.
• If natural lashes are very straight or long, L or L+ Curl keeps the base flush and allows the extension to lift past the lid.

Downturned Eyes - D or M Curl

Downturned outer corners can appear more closed off with softer curls. Using:

• D Curl in the outer corners creates elevation.
• M Curl offers a more structured, elongated lift.

Deep-Set Eyes - C or M Curl

Deep-set eyes appear recessed. If the curl is too dramatic, the eyes can look “surprised.”

• C Curl offers a soft, flattering enhancement.
• M Curl elongates without over-lifting.

Straight Natural Lashes - L+ or M Curl

Straight lashes benefit from curls with a straight base.

This ensures:

• a flush base-to-base bond
• optimal retention
• predictable lift

How to Choose the Right Curl

Selecting curls becomes simple when you follow these guidelines:

1. Consider the natural lash direction and strength

Straighter lashes need structured bases; naturally curly lashes need softer curls to avoid over-lifting.

2. Match curls to the client’s eye shape

Use curls that support balance, lift where needed, and correct asymmetry.

3. Adjust based on the client’s desired style

Natural? Soft? Fox eye? Doll eye? Drama? Curl choice determines the vibe and style..

4. Mix curls for dimension and correction

Blending C → CC → D creates seamless lift and the most flattering transitions.

5. Use Lash Designs + Curl Mapping consistently

Curl maps keep your sets symmetrical, balanced, and elevated.

Pro Tips for Artists

• When blending curls, keep transitions subtle. CC blends seamlessly into D, while C blends easily into CC.
• For any corrective mapping, save your strongest curl (like D or M) for the outer 2–3 sections to create lift where it counts.
• Never underestimate the power of a strong base-to-base bond - especially when working with L+ or M curls.

Becoming a skilled lash tech starts with mastering isolation, adhesive, fan creation, and placement. But becoming a lash artist requires understanding how curls transform the face, enhance features, and create fully customized results.

Purposeful curl selection will elevate your sets, set you apart as a professional, and help you deliver beautiful, long-lasting work that your guests will rave about. Learn more about becoming a lash artist in one of many lash certification courses! 

Explore our full collection of lash curls, and support your artistry with tweezers that grab, adhesives that perform, and curls that are designed to deliver exceptional results.