Classic vs. Volume Lashes: What Lash Artists Need to Know

As a lash artist, staying informed and educated is one of the best ways to build trust with your guests, grow your business, and keep your artistry top-tier. If you’re new to lashing or just looking to refine your skills, understanding the key differences between classic and volume lashes is critical to your craft. Both techniques serve different purposes, require certain skills, and offer distinct results. Knowing which to use (and when) will elevate every set you create to guarantee a custom lash look, every time.

In this blog, we’ll break down everything you need to know about classic vs. volume lashes, what sets them apart, how to choose the right style for your guest, and when it’s time to level up your lashing education. 

What Are Classic Lashes?

Classic lash extensions are the original OGs of lash artistry. This technique involves applying one extension to one natural lash, creating a clean, natural, and defined look. It’s ideal for guests with a healthy, full lash line who are seeking length, curl, and subtle lash look without too much drama.

Types of Classic Lashes:

Round bases - best for natural lash looks 

Flat bases - offers the lash line an 'eyeliner' type appearance and often has better retention

Bundles - 3-6 volume lashes bundled together to offer the lash line a 'spikey' like texture

What makes classic lashes unique:

• One-to-one application (1:1 ratio)
• Common diameters: 0.10 mm to 0.20 mm
• Best for guests with strong natural lashes
• Provides a mascara-like effect - defined texture, yet natural

Classic lashing is where most artists begin their journey, as it lays the groundwork for mastering isolation, placement, and adhesive control. It also teaches patience, precision, and the importance of customizing curls and lengths to flatter each guest’s eye shape and lash health.

What Are Volume Lashes?

Volume lashes take things up a notch. Instead of applying one lash extension to each natural lash, the volume technique involves applying a fan of multiple ultra-fine extensions (usually 2–6, sometimes even more for mega volume) to a single natural lash.

Each fan is handmade or pre-made and strategically placed to create depth, fluff, and dramatic dimension. The result? A fuller, more dense lash line that’s customized to your guest’s preferences and natural lash health.

Types of volume:

2D–3D - A light volume fan, best for fine or brittle natural lashes (2–3 extensions per fan)

4D–6D -  A medium volume fan (4–6 extensions per fan)

10D–20D - Mega volume for max density, created with a .02mm or .03mm (10-20 extensions per fan)

What makes volume lashes unique:

• Lighter diameters (typically .02 mm to .07 mm)
• Handmade or pre-made fans to add to your artistry
• Ideal for sparse or fine lashes
• Allows for dramatic, full, or feathered effects

Volume lashing is a game-changer for artists who want to customize every set down to the last detail. It’s not just about drama though, it’s about artistry, balance, and creating textures that bring your guest’s lash dreams to life.

Try our Skyline Lashes for an effortless, pre-textured volume that gives you built-in dimension with fans that vary in length (example: 9mm, 11mm, 13mm). Or, level up your artistry with our Winged Out Skyline Lashes featuring pre-slanted strips for left and right eyes to help you sculpt the perfect winged, lifted look.

Key Technical Differences Between Classic & Volume

While both styles use similar tools (tweezers, adhesive, gel pads, etc.), the application process is significantly different. Here's a breakdown of the most important differences:

1. Lash Diameter and Weight:

• Classic: Uses thicker diameters (0.10–0.20 mm)
• Volume: Uses ultra-fine diameters (0.02–0.07 mm) to create lightweight fans

2. Application Technique:

• Classic: One extension per natural lash
• Volume: 2–20 extensions fanned and applied to one natural lash

3. Lash Isolation and Placement:

• Both Classic & Volume require precise placement and detailed isolation

4. Adhesive Usage:

• Classic: Less is more! An 'In-out' slow motion when dipping 
• Volume: artist does a 'scooping' motion to attract a small bead of adhesive on the base of the fan 

*Dry time and humidity matter! Borboleta’s Go-To Adhesive is formulated for 40–60% humidity and 68–72°F with up to 5 weeks of retention when placed correctly*

5. Lash Mapping:

• Classic: Creates a more natural, lived-in look
• Volume: Offers more freedom to experiment with texture, density, and layers

Which Should You Learn First?

Short answer: Classic lashes come first.

Classic lashing builds the fundamentals every artist needs; mastering isolation, lash health, symmetry, and client communication. Once you're confident in your classic sets and want to offer more customization, volume is the next step.

Borboleta’s Volume Certification Course is the perfect way to level up your artistry and expand your knowledge. You'll learn how to create beautiful handmade fans, choose the right weight for lash health safety, and design custom sets that keep your guests coming back. 

Choosing the Right Lash Style for Your Guest

Every guest is different and part of being a lash pro is knowing how to recommend the best lash style for their unique eye shape, lifestyle, and lash health.

Classic lashes are great for:

• Guests with naturally full lash lines
• Clients who want a natural, enhanced look
• First-time lash extension clients

Volume lashes are great for:

• Guests with sparse or fine lashes
• Clients looking for drama or glam
• Brides, events, or those who just love a more stylized lash

However, sometimes the answer is a mix! Hybrid lashes blend classic and volume techniques to give your guest the best of both worlds - natural texture from classics with a dense lash line from volume. They’re also great for guests with inconsistent lash lines.

During every consultation, take time to assess your guest’s lashes, ask about their daily skin care and make-up routine, and set realistic expectations. 

Pricing & Service Time Differences

It’s no surprise - volume lash services typically take longer and cost more. Why? Because the skill, product use, and customization level are higher.

Classic Lash Services

Application time 

• Full Set: 2 hours
• Fill: 1 hour - 1 hour 15 mins

Price

•  $100–$175 depending on region, demographic, and experience 

Volume Lash Services

Application time: 

• Full Set: 2.5-3+ hours
• Fill: 1.5-2 hours

Price: 

• $200–$300 depending on region, demographic, and experience 

Don’t forget to factor in refill frequency (usually every 2–3 weeks) and your product cost per service. Using high-quality products, like Borboleta, ensures you’re not only delivering beautiful work, but also maximizing lash retention when paired with best lash care practices in-between fills.

Mastering Both Means More Growth

Classic and volume lashing each have their place, and as a lash artist, knowing both is what takes you from good to great. Being able to confidently offer the full spectrum of lash services allows you to:

• Serve a wider variety of guests
• Charge appropriately for your skill level
• Express more creativity and artistry
• Build loyalty and word-of-mouth referrals

Whether you're building your lash foundation or expanding into advanced techniques, Borboleta has everything you need - from top-tier products to world-class education to a family like community.

Ready to Upgrade Your Skills?

Take your next step with Borboleta’s Lash Certification Courses - available in Classic, Volume, and Pro Artistry and Lash Lift + Brow Lamination. Learn from pros who’ve been in your shoes, get access to our exclusive Education App, and become part of the lash community that roots for your success.

Let’s lash better, together. See you in class!